Sakura is a delicate pink amigurumi doll with a fox-ears headband, layered cherry-blossom flower accents, and a ruffled two-tone pink dress with a halter tie. At about 25cm tall with fully removable clothes, she’s a lovely doll for cherry blossom season, a kawaii-styled shelf, or as a gift for anyone who loves soft pinks.
This is an intermediate-level pattern with lots of pretty small details — a sturdy neck-tube construction, a two-layer glued hair wig finished with delicate braids, and two styles of crocheted sakura flowers used as accessories. Every round is written out below with the designer’s own process photos at each step. Let’s get started!
Table of Contents
Materials Needed
- Schachenmayr Catania or Scheepjes Catona, 100% cotton, 50g/125m (or any yarn you like that suits amigurumi work)
- Hook size 2.0mm (or whatever size suits your yarn)
- Polyester fiberfill for stuffing
- 10mm safety eyes x 2
- Pins
- Yarn needle
- Scissors & stitch markers
- Scrap yarn in black or brown, and white, for embroidering the eye details
- 9–10mm round buttons x 3
- 6mm round beads (for the shoe “buttons”)
- Optional: a piece of craft wire to place inside the arms, plus hot glue gun or fabric glue
- Color palette: White (Catona No. 130), Skin (Catona No. 236), Pink (Catania No. 222), Light Pink (Catania No. 426)
Abbreviations
- MR — Magic Ring
- FL / FLO — Front Loop / Front Loops Only
- BL / BLO — Back Loop / Back Loops Only
- st / sts — stitch / stitches
- sc — single crochet
- inc — increase
- dec — decrease
- hdc — half double crochet
- dc — double crochet
- hdcinc / dcinc — half double / double crochet increase
- tr — triple crochet
- slst — slip stitch
- R — row / round
- Ch — chain
- (…) x times — repeat the instructions in brackets that many times
This pattern is written in US terms and rated Advanced Beginner / Intermediate. The doll works up to about 25cm tall using the suggested yarn and hook — different yarns and hook sizes will change the finished size. All the clothes and accessories are designed to be fully removable.
Notes
A few notes from the designer worth reading before you start:
- To keep the neck sturdy and prevent a wobbly head, a separate Neck-Tube is crocheted and inserted inside the head and neck, then stuffed firmly — a hard plastic straw or craft wire inside it makes the join even more secure.
- A piece of craft wire can be placed inside both arms and crossed through the chest, letting the doll change pose. This is entirely optional — skip it if you’d rather not.
- For the hair, the designer uses fabric glue or hot glue to attach the strands to the head, which is fast but not repairable later. If you’d rather be able to adjust things afterward, sew the strands on with a yarn needle at the pinned spots instead.
Arms & Neck Tube
Arms (make 2)
With Skin yarn. Work in a spiral and do not stuff.
R1. MR, 6sc. (6)
R2. 6inc. (12)
R3-R4. 12sc. (2 rounds – 12)
R5. Sc, 4dc into 1 stitch, 10sc. (15)
R6. 3dec, 9sc. (12)
R7. 12sc. (12)
R8. 2dec, 8sc. (10)
R9-R25. 10sc. (17 rounds – 10)
Fasten off with a long tail. Place a marker at the 3rd stitch of the 1st arm, and another at the 8th stitch of the 2nd arm.
Neck – Tube
With Skin yarn, work in a spiral, do not stuff.
R1. MR, 6sc. (6)
R2. (sc, inc) x 3 times. (9)
R3-R12. 9sc. (10 rounds – 9)
R13. FLO, 9inc. (18)
R14. (2sc, inc) x 6 times. (24). Fasten off.
Fox Ears Headband
Headband
Work with Pink yarn. Ch31, skip 1 chain from hook, 29sc, 3sc into the last chain, work into the other side, 28sc, inc, slst to the 1st stitch, ch30, slst into the 31st stitch of the band. Fasten off and secure the end.
Ear Inner Part (make 4: 2 White, 2 Pink)
MR, ch3, 3dc, tr, ch2, tr, 3dc into the MR. Fasten off the 2 white pieces. Do not cut the yarn on the 2 pink pieces.
Ear Outer Part
Place 1 white piece and 1 pink piece together, slip the loop of the pink one through the 1st stitch of the white, then continue to crochet through both loops of the two pieces together.
Ch1, sc, 2inc, sc, 3sc into the ch2 space, sc, 2inc, sc. Fasten off with a long tail.
Repeat with the remaining 2 pieces. Sew the ears onto the headband as shown in the reference photos.
Sakura Flowers
1st Flower
Start with White yarn.
R1. MR, 5sc, slst to the 1st stitch. (5)
Change to Light Pink yarn.
R2. (Ch2, 1dc, ch1, slst on top of the dc stitch, 1dc, ch1, slst on top of the dc stitch, 1dc, ch2, slst) into 1 stitch of R1 — repeat this into every stitch of R1 to form the 5 petals.
2nd Flower
Start with Pink (or Light Pink) yarn. Work the same as R1 and R2 of the 1st flower, but change the petals to White instead.
Make a chain of 12 chains and sew it to the back of the 2nd flower as a hanging loop.
Legs
Start with White yarn, make 2. Make a foundation chain of 7ch, start in the 2nd chain from the hook, and work around the chain in a spiral. Stuff firmly as you go.
R1. Inc, 4sc, 4sc into the last chain, 4sc, inc. (16)
R2. 2inc, 4sc, 4inc, 4sc, 2inc. (24)
R3. 3sc, inc, 4sc, inc, 6sc, inc, 4sc, inc, 3sc. (28)
R4-R5. 28sc. (2 rounds – 28)
R6. 8sc, 6dec, 8sc. (22)
R7. 7sc, 4dec, 7sc. (18)
R8. 2sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 2sc. (15)
R9-R14. 15sc. (6 rounds – 15)
R15. Change to Skin yarn, BLO, 15sc. (15)
R16-R33. 15sc. (18 rounds – 15)
R34. 4sc, change to White yarn, 11sc. (15)
R35. 15sc. (15)
R36 of the 1st leg. Only 1sc, slst. Fasten off.
R36 of the 2nd leg. 10sc, slst. Do not cut the yarn.
Socks Ruffle
Join White yarn into the front-loop round left from R15 of the legs. Ch1, (sc, ch1) x 15 times, slst to close the round. Fasten off and weave in ends. Repeat on the other leg.
Body
Continue crocheting from R36 of the 2nd leg — after the slst, chain 4 and slip stitch into the slst at the end of R36 of the 1st leg. The next single crochet worked on the 1st leg becomes the beginning of R1 of the body.
Work in a spiral and stuff as you go.
R1. 15sc on 1st leg, 4sc on the ch4, 15sc on 2nd leg, 4sc on the other side of the ch4. (38)
R2. Inc, 6sc, inc, 18sc, inc, 6sc, inc, 4sc. (42)
R3-R6. 42sc. (4 rounds – 42)
R7. (5sc, dec) x 6 times. (36)
R8. 36sc. (36)
R9. Change to Skin yarn, 36sc. (36)
R10. (2sc, dec) x 9 times. (27)
R11. Dec, 25sc. (26)
R12-R18. 26sc. (7 rounds – 26)
In the next round, you’ll assemble both arms to the body — use the markers placed earlier.
R19. 7sc on body, 10sc around the 2nd arm starting from its marker, 14sc on body, 10sc around the 1st arm starting from its marker, 5sc on body. (46)
R20. 5sc, dec, (10sc, dec) x 3 times, 3sc. (42)
R21. 5sc, dec, 8sc, dec, 10sc, dec, 8sc, dec, 3sc. (38)
R22. 3sc, dec, 5sc, dec, (4sc, dec) x 3 times, 5sc, dec, sc. (32)
R23. (2sc, dec) x 8 times. (24)
R24. (2sc, dec) x 6 times. (18)
R25. (sc, dec) x 6 times. (12)
R26-R29. 12sc. (4 rounds – 12). Do not cut yarn.
If any small gaps appear under the armpits after assembling, thread the long arm tail onto a needle and stitch over each gap to close it.
Head
Continue crocheting up from R29 of the body. Work in a spiral and stuff firmly as you go.
R30. 12inc. (24)
R31. (sc, inc) x 12 times. (36)
R32. (5sc, inc) x 6 times. (42)
R33. 3sc, inc, (6sc, inc) x 5 times, 3sc. (48)
R34. (7sc, inc) x 6 times. (54)
R35-R48. 54sc. (14 rounds – 54)
Use a chopstick (or anything similar) to push the neck-tube down into the neck until its top touches the bottom of the head, then stuff it firmly — a piece of craft wire or a hard plastic straw inside the tube adds extra security.
Insert the safety eyes at R39–R40, 9 stitches apart. Split a piece of dark 4-ply yarn into thinner strands: embroider the eyeliner with 3 strands, and the eyelashes and eyebrows with 2 strands. The eyebrows sit 5 stitches wide and 1 round tall at R43–R44. Add a small stitch of white yarn to cover the bottom of each eye. The nose sits at R38–R39 between the eyes, over 3 stitches (a bullion stitch works well here, but is optional).
R49. (7sc, dec) x 6 times. (48)
R50. 48sc. (48)
R51. (6sc, dec) x 6 times. (42)
R52. (5sc, dec) x 6 times. (36)
R53. (4sc, dec) x 6 times. (30)
R54. (3sc, dec) x 6 times. (24)
R55. (2sc, dec) x 6 times. (18)
R56. (sc, dec) x 6 times. (12)
R57. 6dec. (6)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Pass the tail through the 6 front loops of R57 and pull tightly to close the hole, then hide the tail inside.
Hair
Use Light Pink yarn for the hair, working a total of 2 layers. Finish both layers completely before assembling them onto the head.
Base
R1. MR, 6sc. (6)
R2. 6inc. (12)
R3. (sc, inc) x 6 times. (18)
R4. (FLO, 2sc, inc), (2sc, inc) x 2 times, (FLO, 2sc, inc), (2sc, inc) x 2 times, slst to the 1st stitch. (24)
This leaves 3 groups of back loops free at two points on the base — you’ll use these for the second hair layer later. Continue straight into the hair strands from here.
First Layer (24 strands)
S1-S5. Ch22, skip 1ch, work into the 2nd chain, sc, 20hdc, slst to the next stitch on the base.
S6-S8. Ch40, skip 1ch, work into the 2nd chain, sc, 38hdc, slst to the next stitch on the base.
S9. Ch25, skip 1ch, work into the 2nd chain, sc, 23hdc, slst to the next stitch on the base.
S10. Ch20, skip 1ch, work into the 2nd chain, sc, 18hdc, slst to the next stitch on the base.
S11-S14. Ch12, skip 1ch, work into the 2nd chain, 11hdc, slst to the next stitch on the base.
S15. Ch20, skip 1ch, work into the 2nd chain, sc, 18hdc, slst to the next stitch on the base.
S16. Ch25, skip 1ch, work into the 2nd chain, sc, 23hdc, slst to the next stitch on the base.
S17-S19. Ch40, skip 1ch, work into the 2nd chain, sc, 38hdc, slst to the next stitch on the base.
S20-S24. Ch22, skip 1ch, work into the 2nd chain, sc, 20hdc, slst to the next stitch on the base. Fasten off.
Second Layer (12 strands)
Join Light Pink yarn and crochet into the 6 back loops left free from R4 of the base. Each loop gets 2 strands (12 total), worked with the right side facing up.
S25-S30. Worked into the 1st back-loop group: (ch30, skip 1ch, work into the 2nd chain, 29sc, slst into the same loop, ch30, skip 1ch, work into the 2nd chain, 29sc, slst to the next loop) — repeat this twice more, ending with a slst into the same last loop as S30. Fasten off.
S31-S36. Worked the same way into the 2nd back-loop group, ending with a slst into the same last loop as S36. Fasten off.
Assembly
Tie all the second-layer strands up out of the way. Place the first layer onto the head with the wrong side facing up, secure the strands with pins as shown in the designer’s reference photos, then slowly unpin each one, apply hot glue or fabric glue, and attach it to the back of the head. Place strands S9 and S16 two stitches away from the eyelashes; attach S8 onto S7, and S18 onto S17.
Once the first layer is finished, untie the second layer and set it aside while you work on the Fox Ears Headband. Wear the headband on top of the head between the two second-layer strand groups and secure it as shown in the photos. Leave the bang section (S10–S16) unattached for a natural look.
Gather the 12 second-layer strands back up and tie them tightly to the head with a piece of light pink yarn. Make 2 small braids from (S6, S7, S8) and (S17, S18, S19), and place them at the nape of the neck. Finally, fix the bang strands to the sides of the head as shown in the reference photos.
Dress
Start with Pink yarn. (The chain at the beginning of a round doesn’t count as a stitch.)
R1. Ch38, skip 6ch to make a buttonhole, work into the 7th chain, 32sc. (32)
R2-R6. Ch1, flip your work, 32sc. (5 rows – 32)
R7. Ch6 to make a buttonhole, flip, 32sc. (32)
R8. Change to White yarn, 32sc. Fasten off. (32)
First Layer (skirt)
Do not flip. Join Pink yarn into the 1st front loop of R8.
R9. Ch2, FLO, 32dcinc, slst into the 1st stitch. (64)
R10. Ch2, (dc, dcinc) x 32 times, slst. (96)
R11-R12. Ch2, 96dc, slst. (2 rounds – 96)
Change to Light Pink yarn.
R13. Ch1, (3sc, ch2, slst on top of the sc) x 32 times, slst. Fasten off.
Second Layer (underskirt)
Join White yarn into the 1st back loop of R8, and continue to crochet R14.
R14. Ch2, BLO, 32dcinc, ch2, slst into the same last stitch. Fasten off. (64)
Join White yarn again into the 1st stitch of R14, and continue with R15.
R15. Ch2, (dc, dcinc) x 32 times, slst. (96)
R16-R18. Ch2, 96dc, slst. (3 rounds – 96)
R19. Ch1, (sc, ch1) x 96 times, slst. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Halter Part & Sleeves
Join White yarn into the other side of the dress’s foundation chain to make the halter.
R1. Ch1, 11sc, 2hdc, 6dc, 2hdc, 11sc. (32)
Fasten off and join Pink yarn into the 1st stitch of R1 to crochet R2.
R2. Ch1, 7sc, ch10, skip 2 stitches, 14sc, ch10, skip 2 stitches, 7sc. Fasten off.
Join Pink yarn into the 10th chain of each ch10 made in R2 to work the sleeves — both sleeves are worked the same way.
Ch2, (dcinc, 3dc in 1 stitch) x 5 times, ch2, slst into the same last chain. (25)
Make a chain of 80 chains and fasten off — this is the halter strap. Pass both tails of the chain through the 2 stitches at the center of R2, then tie them at the back of the neck. Sew the buttons on as shown in the reference photos, and attach the 1st sakura flower to the front of the dress.
Shoes
Start with Pink yarn, make 2. Work a foundation chain of 8ch, skip 1ch from the hook and start into the 2nd chain, working in a spiral.
R1. Inc, 5sc, 4sc into the last chain, 5sc, inc. (18)
R2. 2inc, 5sc, 4inc, 5sc, 2inc. (26)
R3. (sc, inc) x 2 times, 5sc, (sc, inc) x 4 times, 5sc, (sc, inc) x 2 times. (34)
Change to Light Pink yarn.
R4. BLO, 34sc. (34)
R5-R7. 34sc. (3 rounds – 34)
R8. 8sc, 9dec, 8sc. (25)
Change to Pink yarn.
R9 of the 1st shoe. 7sc, ch16, skip 6ch to make a buttonhole, work into the 7th chain from the hook, 10slst on the chain, 11slst on the shoe, 7sc. Fasten off.
R9 of the 2nd shoe. 7sc, 11slst, ch16, skip 6ch to make a buttonhole, work into the 7th chain from the hook, 10slst on the chain, 7sc on the shoe. Fasten off.
Join Pink yarn into the front-loop round left from R4 to crochet the outsole. Ch1, 34sc, slst to close the round. Fasten off. (34)
Sew the 6mm round beads onto the shoes as buttons.
Tips for a Polished Finish
- Don’t skip the neck-tube — it’s a small extra step that makes a real difference in keeping the head from wobbling, especially once the hair and headband add extra weight.
- If you plan to pose the doll, add the optional arm wire before you close up the arms — it’s much harder to retrofit once the arm is fully stuffed and joined to the body.
- When gluing the hair strands, work in small batches (pin, unpin one, glue, repeat) rather than unpinning everything at once — it keeps the strands from tangling or slipping out of place before the glue sets.
- Keep the two sakura flower motifs straight in your head as you go — the 1st flower stays flat as a sew-on accent, while the 2nd gets a hanging chain loop, so it’s easy to mix them up mid-project.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I need to add the wire to the arms?
No — it’s explicitly optional in the pattern. Without it the arms will simply be soft and won’t hold a bent pose, which is perfectly fine if you’re not planning to pose the doll.
What if my finished doll comes out a different size than 25cm?
That’s expected if you use a different yarn weight or hook size than suggested — the designer notes that size will vary with your materials. As long as your gauge is consistent throughout, the doll and her clothes will still fit together correctly.
Can I sew the hair instead of gluing it?
Yes — the designer notes this directly. Gluing is faster but not repairable afterward, so if you’d like the option to adjust the hairstyle later, sew each strand on with a yarn needle at the pinned spots instead.
What’s the difference between the two sakura flowers?
They use the same basic 5-petal construction, just in swapped colors — the 1st flower starts white with light-pink petals and is sewn flat onto the dress, while the 2nd flower starts pink with white petals and gets a 12-chain loop sewn to the back so it can hang, for example from the headband or as a separate charm.
Conclusion
Between the fox ears, the layered hair with its little braids, and two styles of hand-crocheted cherry blossoms, Sakura is full of small details that add up to something really charming. Take the hair and dress construction slowly, and she’ll make a beautiful addition to any collection. If you make your own Sakura Doll, I’d love to see her — share a photo or drop a comment below with how yours turned out!
