Pumpkin Doll Amigurumi Crochet Pattern (Free Pattern)

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This cozy autumn doll comes with tousled blonde curls, a flower-embroidered knee sock, a ruffled orange party dress with a tulle petticoat underneath, and — best of all — her own crocheted pumpkin with a stitched-on stem and leaves. She’s a lovely one for a fall-themed shelf, a harvest-time gift, or just an excuse to crochet with orange and mustard yarn for a while.

Below is the complete free pattern, written round by round with the designer’s own process photos grouped at each step. Between the wired arms and legs, the needle-sculpted face, and the layered dress, this is a satisfying weekend (or few-evenings) project. Let’s get started!

Table of Contents

Materials Needed

  • Alize Cotton Gold 100g/330m, color 401 (body color) — for the body
  • Alize Cotton Gold 100g/330m, color 62 (cream) — for the knee socks and bodysuit
  • YarnArt Baby Cotton 50g/165m, color 404 (beige) — for the sock edging and dress flounces
  • YarnArt Baby Cotton 50g/165m, color 403 (light beige) — for the hair wig
  • Gazzal Baby Cotton 50g/165m, color 3465 (orange) — for the dress
  • YarnArt Baby Cotton 50g/165m, color 439 (green) — for the shoes and pumpkin leaves
  • YarnArt Baby Cotton 50g/165m, color 433 (mustard) — for the pumpkin
  • Hook size 1.75 mm
  • Polyester toy filling (fiberfill)
  • Safety eyes, 10 mm
  • Thick yarn needle, sewing pins, scissors, stitch marker
  • Black, white, and brown thread to embroider the face
  • Blush or dry pastel for toning
  • Plastic cutting boards (for the shoe insoles)
  • Wire, 6 mm diameter (11 cm) — for the neck
  • Wire, 1.5 mm diameter (22 cm) — for the arms
  • Adhesive plaster
  • Buttons, 9 mm — 2 pieces
  • Artificial flowers, for the sock and dress embroidery accents
  • Tulle, for the petticoat
  • A small decorative bow
  • Decorative pieces of your choice

Abbreviations

  • MR — magic ring
  • ch — chain
  • t-ch — turning chain
  • sc — single crochet
  • inc — increase (2 sc in one stitch)
  • dec — decrease (2 sc together)
  • sl st — slip stitch
  • hdc — half double crochet
  • hdcinc — half double crochet increase (2 hdc in one stitch)
  • dc — double crochet
  • dcinc — double crochet increase (2 dc in one stitch)
  • tr — treble crochet
  • trinc — treble crochet increase (2 tr in one stitch)
  • Bobble st — crochet unfinished dc stitches in one stitch with a common top
  • (…) — the number in brackets is the stitch count for that round/row
  • (…)*N — repeat the indicated stitches in brackets N times

The doll’s body, hair wig (aside from the loose strands), and shoes are all worked in “semi-X” (mixed) stitches, while the dress, hair strands, and pumpkin use the standard “V-shape” stitch — both are shown below. Crochet tightly so no stuffing shows through, and everything is worked in a continuous spiral unless the pattern says otherwise. The finished doll measures about 24 cm.

General Techniques

Semi-X shaped sc (“mixed”): insert your hook into the stitch, place the hook over the yarn and pull it through, then yarn over once more and finish the stitch through both loops on the hook.

V-shape sc: insert your hook into the stitch, place the hook under the yarn and pull it over from back to front, then yarn over the same way and finish through both loops on the hook.

Step-by-step photos demonstrating the semi-X (mixed) single crochet and the V-shape single crochet side by side this …
The two stitch styles used throughout this pattern — semi-X for the body and shoes, V-shape for the dress, strands, and pumpkin.

3-dc Bobble st: yarn over, insert the hook into the stitch, pull the yarn through (3 loops on the hook), yarn over and pull through 2 loops (2 loops left). Yarn over, insert into the same stitch again, pull through (4 loops), yarn over and pull through 2 (3 loops left). Yarn over, insert into the same stitch once more, pull through (5 loops), yarn over and pull through 2 (4 loops left), then yarn over and pull through all 4 remaining loops to finish.

The 3-double-crochet bobble stitch worked step by step into the same stitch, building up loops on the hook before closing them all together
The bobble stitch used on the arms — three unfinished dc worked into one stitch, then closed together at the top.

Arms

Make 2 in body color. Stuff the palm tightly, then do not stuff any further up the arm.

1Rnd: 6sc in a MR (6)

2Rnd: 6inc (12)

3-4Rnds: 12sc (2 rounds) (12)

5Rnd: 3-dc Bobble st, 11sc (12)

6Rnd: (dec, 3sc)*2, dec (9)

7Rnd: 9sc

8Rnd: inc, 8sc (10)

9-26Rnds: 10sc (18 rounds) (10)

Fasten off and cut the yarn. Hide the ends inside.

The two finished arm pieces with a small bobble-stitch thumb bump near the top
Both arms finished, with the bobble stitch from round 5 forming a small thumb.

Legs & Body

Right leg

Start in cream color. Stuff the legs and body tightly as you go.

1Rnd: ch7, start on the second chain from the hook: 5sc, 3sc in the last chain, on the other side of the chain – 4sc, inc (14)

2Rnd: inc, 4sc, 3inc, 4sc, 2inc (20)

3Rnd: 1sc, inc, 4sc, (1sc, inc)*3, 4sc, (1sc, inc)*2 (26)

4Rnd: 2sc, inc, 4sc, (2sc, inc)*3, 4sc, (2sc, inc)*2 (32)

Prepare the insoles now — soft plastic cutting boards work well. Trace around the sole piece and cut out 2 pieces.

The oval sole worked up from the foundation chain, two plastic insole pieces cut to match, and the sole with the insole test-fitted inside
The sole crocheted up, with matching plastic insoles cut and ready to insert.

5Rnd: in back loops 32sc

6Rnd: 32sc

The next round is short, with the marker centered at the heel — your stitch count in round 7 may differ slightly; just make sure it lands at the back-middle going forward, adding extra stitches if needed.

7Rnd: 31sc

8Rnd: 10sc, 6dec, 10sc (26)

Insert the insole now.

9Rnd: 7sc, 6dec, 7sc (20)

10Rnd: 6sc, 4dec, 6sc (16)

11Rnd: (4sc, dec)*2, 4sc (14)

12-13Rnds: 14sc (2 rounds) (14)

14Rnd: (inc, 6sc)*2 (16)

15Rnd: 16sc

The increases in the next round sit on the sides of the leg — follow the marker.

16Rnd: 4sc, inc, 6sc, inc, 4sc (18)

17-26Rnds: 18sc (10 rounds) (18)

The wire threaded up through the shoe and leg, the shoe shaped around the insole, and the heel closed with a needle before the leg continues upward
The insole seated inside the shoe, with the leg continuing to build upward around the wire.

The decreases in the next round sit on the sides — follow the marker.

27Rnd: 4sc, dec, 6sc, dec, 4sc (16)

28Rnd: 7sc, 2inc, 7sc (18)

29Rnd: 4sc, inc, 8sc, inc, 4sc (20)

30Rnd: in back loops 20sc

Change to body color and cut the cream yarn.

31-39Rnds: 20sc (9 rounds) (20)

Change back to cream and cut the body-color yarn.

40-41Rnds: 20sc (2 rounds) (20)

Crochet a few extra stitches (the designer used 6sc) to align the marker to the side — see photo. On the right leg only, fasten off and cut the yarn here.

The leg shaped up through the color-change rounds and the knee-sock stripe pattern beginning to take shape
The leg worked up through the color changes that form the knee-sock stripe.

Attach the beige yarn to the front loop of round 29 and work (ch3, sl st)*20 around for the sock’s scalloped trim, holding the leg as shown in the photo. Fasten off, cut the yarn, and hide the ends.

Crochet the left leg exactly the same way, but this time don’t cut the yarn — continue straight into the body. Place a marker.

Attaching a scalloped trim to the top of the sock, then joining both legs together at the crotch with a short connecting chain
The scalloped sock trim finished, then both legs joined together ready for the body.

42Rnd: 10sc on the left leg, ch5 and join the right leg. 20sc on the right leg, 5sc on the chain, 10sc on the left leg (50)

43-51Rnds: 50sc (9 rounds) (50)

52Rnd: 4sc, dec, (8sc, dec)*4, 4sc (45)

53-54Rnds: 45sc (2 rounds) (45)

The decreases in the next round sit in specific spots as noted — add extra stitches first if you need to.

55Rnd: dec (on the side), 22sc, dec (on the side), 9sc, dec (back centered), 8sc (42)

56-64Rnds: 42sc (9 rounds) (42)

The next round is short, with the marker at the back-center — your count may differ slightly in round 65; just keep it centered going forward.

65Rnd: 35sc

Change to body color and cut the cream yarn.

66Rnd: in back loops 42sc

The finished lower body with both legs joined, the completed knee socks decorated with small embroidered floral appliqués
Both legs joined into the body, with the knee socks ready for a floral appliqué or bow accent.

Join the arms in the next round. Make sure they sit symmetrically on either side of the body, with the thumbs pointing forward.

67Rnd: 8sc, 5sc on the inside of the arm and body (worked together), 16sc, 5sc on the inside of the arm and body, 8sc (42)

68Rnd: 8sc, 5sc along the outside of the arm, 16sc, 5sc along the outside of the arm, 8sc (42)

Prepare a 1.5mm-diameter wire, 22cm long. Fold the edges as shown in the designer’s photo, try the frame against the arms for fit, then insulate the ends with adhesive plaster. Insert into the arms and add fiberfill.

69Rnd: (5sc, dec)*6 (36)

70Rnd: 2sc, dec, (4sc, dec)*5, 2sc (30)

71Rnd: (3sc, dec)*6 (24)

72Rnd: (2sc, dec)*6 (18)

73Rnd: (4sc, dec)*3 (15)

74-77Rnds: 15sc (4 rounds) (15)

Finish with a sl st, fasten off, and cut the yarn — leave the end for sewing pieces on later.

Sew an appliqué or small bow onto the side of each knee sock as a finishing touch.

Head

Crochet in body color. Stuff tightly as you go.

1Rnd: 6sc in a MR (6)

2Rnd: 6inc (12)

3Rnd: (1sc, inc)*6 (18)

4Rnd: 1sc, inc, (2sc, inc)*5, 1sc (24)

5Rnd: (3sc, inc)*6 (30)

6Rnd: 2sc, inc, (4sc, inc)*5, 2sc (36)

7Rnd: (5sc, inc)*6 (42)

8Rnd: 3sc, inc, (6sc, inc)*5, 3sc (48)

9Rnd: (7sc, inc)*6 (54)

10Rnd: 4sc, inc, (8sc, inc)*5, 4sc (60)

11-19Rnds: 60sc (9 rounds) (60)

Crochet the eye holes in the next round.

20Rnd: 24sc, ch1, skip 1 stitch, 10sc, ch1, skip 1 stitch, 24sc (60)

21Rnd: 60sc

22Rnd: 20sc, (inc, 2sc)*3, 2sc, (2sc, inc)*3, 20sc (66)

23-25Rnds: 66sc (3 rounds) (66)

Insert the safety eyes into the holes now and secure with the washers from the wrong side.

26Rnd: 17sc, (dec, 1sc)*5, 2sc, (dec, 1sc)*5, 17sc (56)

27Rnd: (26sc, dec)*2 (54)

28Rnd: (7sc, dec)*6 (48)

29Rnd: 3sc, dec, (6sc, dec)*5, 3sc (42)

30Rnd: (5sc, dec)*6 (36)

31Rnd: 2sc, dec, (4sc, dec)*5, 2sc (30)

32Rnd: (3sc, dec)*6 (24)

33Rnd: 1sc, dec, (2sc, dec)*5, 1sc (18)

34Rnd: (3sc, dec)*3, 2sc, sl st (15)

Fasten off and cut the yarn, hiding the ends inside.

The finished head shape with black safety eyes fastened in place, ready for the ears and face embroidery
The head shaped and eyes secured, ready for needle sculpting and face embroidery.

Ears & Face Needle Sculpting

Ears

Make 2 in body color. Leave a long yarn end at the start for sewing the ears onto the head later.

1Rnd: 5sc in a MR (5)

Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing.

Face Needle Sculpting

Work the needle sculpting following the designer’s numbered photo. Use a long, strong thread — the same yarn as the doll works well. Insert the needle as close to the eyes as possible.

Points 5 and 6 sit in the last round of the head, at the front center. Insert the needle at point 5 and bring it out through point 1. Then insert at point 2 and bring it out through point 6, tightening the second eye. Insert again at point 5 and bring it out through point 3, then enter at point 4 and exit through point 6. Pull the ends very gently, evening out both eyes without over-tightening, then tie a knot and hide it inside.

The two crocheted ears, then the numbered needle-sculpting sequence pulling the eye sockets into shape
The needle-sculpting sequence that gives the doll her characteristic eye shape.

Nose: mark 2 points with pins between rounds 22 and 23 of the head, 3sc apart. Make two stitches with body-colored thread from one pin to the other, then wrap those stitches with the same thread using a needle to build up a small raised nose.

Ears: mark 2 points with pins — the upper edge between rounds 20 and 21, the lower one between rounds 22 and 23, 8sc out from the edge of the eye. Sew the ears on at these points.

Using white thread, add a couple of stitches from the outer corner of each eye. Embroider eyelashes above the eyes in black thread, and eyebrows in brown thread, bringing all the thread ends out through the hole in the head. Tie off in a knot and hide inside once finished. Finish with a light blush of pink pastel on the cheeks and nose, and a touch of brown shadow on the eyebrows and upper lashes.

Embroidering the raised nose, sewing on the ears, and adding eyelashes, eyebrows, and cheek blush to complete the face
The nose, ears, eyelashes, eyebrows, and blush all coming together to finish the face.

Hair Wig

Crochet in light beige color, and try the wig on the head as you go — it should sit snugly. Since everyone’s gauge differs, you may need a round or two more or less than written here.

1Rnd: 6sc in a MR (6)

2Rnd: in back loops: 6inc (12)

3Rnd: (1sc, inc)*6 (18)

4Rnd: in back loops: (2sc, inc)*6 (24)

5Rnd: (3sc, inc)*6 (30)

6Rnd: in back loops: (4sc, inc)*6 (36)

7Rnd: (5sc, inc)*6 (42)

8Rnd: in back loops: (6sc, inc)*6 (48)

9Rnd: strands: (ch60, from the 2nd chain on the hook: 59sc, skip 1 stitch on the base, 1sc)*16, then bangs: (ch7, from the 2nd chain on the hook: 6sc, 2sl st)*8.

The round wig base worked flat, then the first long chain-and-sc hair strands and short bang pieces radiating outward from it
The wig base with its first long strands and short bang pieces already worked.

Move to the next round with 2 sl st. Work into the front loops of round 7: strands — (ch60, from the 2nd chain: 59sc, skip 1 stitch on the base, 1sc)*21.

Move to the next round with 2 sl st. Work into the front loops of round 5: strands — (ch60, from the 2nd chain: 59sc, skip 1 stitch on the base, 1sc)*15.

Move to the next round with 2 sl st. Work into the front loops of round 3: strands — (ch60, from the 2nd chain: 59sc, skip 1 stitch on the base, 1sc)*9.

Move to the next round with 2 sl st. Work into the front loops of round 1: strands — (ch60, from the 2nd chain: 59sc, skip 1 stitch on the base, 1sc)*3.

Fasten off, cut the yarn, and weave in the ends.

The fully finished wig with every layer of hair strands complete, fanned out flat before styling
All the hair-strand layers finished and fanned out, ready to try on and style.

Hairdo

Try the wig on the head. Pin each strand of the bottom row in place, with the short bang strands positioned at the front. Sew the long strands down on both sides using a back stitch. For the bangs: insert the needle into the hole in the head and bring it out through the pin location, grab the tip of the strand and insert it back into that same point, then bring the needle back out through the opening in the head — repeat this for every bang strand, one at a time.

Pinning each hair strand in place on the head with colored marker pins, sewing them down with a back stitch, and the finished curly hairstyle
Every strand pinned, sewn down, and styled into the finished curly look.

Take an 11cm wire and insulate the ends with adhesive plaster. Insert the wire into the doll’s body first, then add fiberfill into the neck, packing it tightly. Set the head onto the neck, secure with pins, and sew firmly all the way around.

The insulated neck wire, the wire inserted into the stuffed neck opening, and the finished doll with head and wig fully attached
The neck wire inserted and the head sewn firmly into place, finishing the doll’s silhouette.

Dress

Crochet in orange. The top of the dress is worked in rows with dc — since gauge varies, you may need a larger or smaller hook to match. Ch30 + 2 turning chains.

1Row: start on the third chain from the hook: 4dc, 3dc in one stitch, 5dc, 3dc in one stitch, 8dc, 3dc in one stitch, 5dc, 3dc in one stitch, 4dc (38)

2Row: 2 t-ch, 5dc, 3dc in one stitch, 7dc, 3dc in one stitch, 10dc, 3dc in one stitch, 7dc, 3dc in one stitch, 5dc (46)

3Row: 2 t-ch, 2dc, dcinc, 3dc; sleeve: in one stitch — (dc, ch2, dc)*11, dcinc, 10dc, dcinc; sleeve: in one stitch — (dc, ch2, dc)*11, 3dc, dcinc, 2dc (72)

Working the dress bodice top in double crochet, with the two puffed sleeve sections formed by working repeated (dc, ch2, dc) groups into a single stitch
The bodice worked flat, with both sleeve openings formed by clusters of dc-and-chain stitches.

4Row: 2 t-ch, 3dc, dcinc, 3dc, ch5, skip the sleeve stitches (see photo), dcinc, 12dc, dcinc, ch5, skip the sleeve stitches, 3dc, dcinc, 3dc (42)

5Row: 2 t-ch, 3dc, dcinc, (6dc, dcinc)*5, 3dc (48)

6Row: in front loops: 2 t-ch, 48dcinc (96)

7Row: 2 t-ch, 96dc

Join the round with a sl st, then continue working in rounds — start each round with 2 t-ch and finish with a sl st.

8-12Rnds: 96sc (5 rounds) (96)

13Rnd: in back loops: in one stitch — (dc, ch2, dc)*96 (192)

Fasten off, cut the yarn, and weave in the ends.

The bodice finished with both sleeves bridged by chains, then the skirt flaring out into a full scalloped ruffle at the hem
The bodice with sleeves finished, and the skirt flared into its scalloped shell-stitch hem.

Attach the beige yarn to the front loop of round 12 from the back. Hold the dress as shown in the photo, and work into one loop: (1sc, ch1, 1sc)*96 (192). Fasten off, cut the yarn, and weave in the ends.

Work around the edges with sc, making two button loops of ch5 (or however many chains you need) along one side of the dress. Fasten off, cut the yarn, and weave in the ends.

Flounces & Petticoat

Flounces

Make 2 in beige. Ch30 + 1 t-ch.

1Row: start on the 2nd chain from the hook: 3sc, 2hdcinc, 4dcinc, 12trinc, 4dcinc, 2hdcinc, 3sc.

Fasten off, cut the yarn, and weave in the ends.

Mark the flounce placement on the dress front, between rows 5 and 6, 8dc apart, with 3dc left free at the back edge. Sew the flounces on using a single strand of the beige main yarn.

Crocheting the fan-shaped flounce pieces, marking their placement on the dress front, and sewing them on as little cap-sleeve details
The flounces crocheted flat and sewn onto the dress front as decorative cap details.

Petticoat

Cut a length of tulle. Sew a basting stitch along the top edge for the full length and gather it into folds. Turn the dress inside out, pin the gathered tulle in place between rows 5 and 6, then sew the petticoat on securely.

Sew an appliqué or other decorative piece to the front of the dress, and sew the two buttons onto the back to finish the closure.

Gathering the tulle into a ruffled petticoat, pinning it inside the dress, and the finished dress with a floral appliqué and button closure on the back
The tulle petticoat gathered and sewn in, with the dress finished off with an appliqué and back buttons.

Shoes

Crochet in green.

1Rnd: ch7, start on the second chain from the hook: 5sc, 3sc in the last chain, on the other side of the chain – 4sc, inc (14)

2Rnd: inc, 4sc, 3inc, 4sc, 2inc (20)

3Rnd: sc, inc, 4sc, (sc, inc)*3, 4sc, (sc, inc)*2 (26)

4Rnd: 2sc, inc, 4sc, (2sc, inc)*3, 4sc, (2sc, inc)*2 (32)

5Rnd: 3sc, inc, 4sc, (3sc, inc)*3, 4sc, (3sc, inc)*2 (38)

6Rnd: in back loops 38sc

7Rnd: 38sc

8Rnd: 37sc — a short round, with the marker centered at the heel.

9Rnd: 10sc, (1sc, dec)*6, 10sc (32)

10Rnd: 14sc, 2dec, 14sc (30)

Finish with a sl st, fasten off, cut the yarn, and hide the ends inside.

Using green thread, chain 35, attach with a sl st to the back center of the shoe, then chain another 35 and fasten off — this forms the ankle strap. Crochet the second shoe the same way.

The green shoe worked up around the sole, the ankle-strap chain attached at the heel, and both shoes finished on the doll's feet
Both shoes finished, with a simple crocheted chain forming each ankle strap.

Pumpkin & Leaves

Crochet in mustard color. Stuff lightly as you go.

1Rnd: 7sc in a MR (7)

2Rnd: 7inc (14)

3Rnd: (1sc, inc)*7 (21)

4Rnd: (2sc, inc)*7 (28)

5Rnd: (3sc, inc)*7 (35)

6Rnd: (4sc, inc)*7 (42)

7-12Rnds: 42sc (6 rounds) (42)

13Rnd: (4sc, dec)*7 (35)

14Rnd: (3sc, dec)*7 (28)

15Rnd: (2sc, dec)*7 (21)

16Rnd: (1sc, dec)*7 (14)

17Rnd: 7dec (7)

Fasten off and cut the yarn, leaving a long end to close the hole. Hide the ends inside.

Leaves: crochet in green. Ch8, from the 2nd chain: 7inc. Repeat this two more times (3 separate leaf pieces total: ch8, 7inc each). Fasten off, cut the yarn, and leave the ends for sewing.

The small stuffed pumpkin shape and the three simple leaf pieces crocheted from short chains
The pumpkin shaped and lightly stuffed, with three little leaves ready to top it.

Assembly

To make the pumpkin’s signature ribs: thread a needle with beige thread and insert it through the center of the magic ring, piercing all the way through and exiting through the center on the opposite side. Lay the thread along the piece, following the line of increases and decreases, then pull to draw in a rib. Repeat — inserting and exiting through the center each time — to make 7 ribs total, keeping them evenly spaced. Sew the leaves on top, centered over the ribs.

Wrapping thread around the pumpkin from pole to pole to form seven pumpkin ribs, then the leaves sewn on top at the center
The finished pumpkin, its ribs formed by wrapped thread and topped with a little cluster of leaves.

Tips for a Polished Finish

  • Keep your stitch marker moving every round it’s mentioned — the marker position shifts several times through the legs and body to keep decreases and color changes aligned at the back seam.
  • Don’t skip the plastic-board insoles in the shoes — they give the doll’s feet a flat, stable stance instead of a rounded amigurumi foot.
  • When forming the pumpkin’s ribs, pull the thread evenly and check the shape from all sides as you go — it’s easy to over-tighten one rib and end up with a lopsided pumpkin.
  • Try the wig on the head periodically while making it, as the pattern suggests — gauge varies enough between crocheters that a round or two more or less can make a real difference in fit.

Frequently Asked Questions

What’s the difference between the semi-X and V-shape stitches?

They’re two ways of orienting your yarn over as you crochet. Semi-X (mixed) stitches are used for the body, wig base, and shoes for a tighter, smoother fabric, while the V-shape (standard yarn-over) stitch is used for the dress, hair strands, and pumpkin, giving those pieces a slightly looser, more textured look.

Can I skip the wire armature?

You can, but the arms and legs will be considerably floppier and won’t hold a pose. If you skip it, stuff the limbs a bit more firmly than usual to compensate.

What if I don’t have a plastic cutting board for the insoles?

Any thin, semi-rigid plastic sheet works — a piece cut from a plastic folder, a yogurt tub lid, or craft foam are all reasonable substitutes as long as they hold their shape without being too stiff to sew through.

How long does this pattern take to make?

Between the wired body, needle-sculpted face, layered hair wig, and the dress-with-petticoat, this is a multi-session project. Most makers split it across the body and limbs, the head and hair, and the wardrobe (dress, shoes, and pumpkin) as separate sittings.

Conclusion

From her needle-sculpted eyes to the little ribbed pumpkin tucked in her hands, this doll is full of small details that reward a bit of patience — especially the hair wig and the dress’s tulle petticoat. Take your time with the finishing touches, and she’ll make a lovely piece for the fall season. If you make your own Pumpkin Doll, I’d love to see her — share a photo or drop a comment below with how yours turned out!

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